Many years ago in the mid 2010s I pioneered a route for myself to catch all of the major waterfalls along the Black River and Presque Isle River in the Western Upper Peninsula. The route is simple: start at the North Country Trail trailhead just north of Copper Peak, wind your way down the Black River, then either follow the NCT to the east or hike the Lake Superior shoreline until you reach the Porkies on the other wise. Then return via the other way!

I've now done both options as both a two-night and single-night option. All told it's about a 32-mile round trip from Copper Peak to Black River Harbor to Presque Isle and back to Copper Peak, which makes it a perfect backpacking trip. Best of all, it avoids almost all crowds, even at busy times of year. I've done it at peak spring spring snowmelt and in the fall and both are excellent in their own way.

The Black River Harbor stretch of the NCT is downright amazing and should be on your shortlist of hikes even if you don't do the whole thing. There are several waterfalls, beautiful hemlocks for miles, and the river is gorgeous. The Harbor is quite nice too and will likely be the busiest point on your trip.

To trek east to (or west from) the Porkies, your first option is to continue on the NCT. This stretch is fairly flat and rather boring, generic trail. It's also plumb straight and follows an old logging grade for most of its length. New for 2024 is the addition of a large mining operation that is being built just to the north of the trail (within sight). It's a major detriment and quite loud. Fortunately the trail corridor itself is safe.

Your second option to hike the shoreline. Starting from Black River Harbor, the going is quite easy for the first couple of miles. It's a wide sandy beach, no complaints! Eventually though, the shoreline narrows and begins to peter out. At times you might be hiking in the water for short distances below an eroding clay bluff, hopping over fallen trees and boulders. It's an adventure for sure! Towards the end though, you'll be forced to climb up and out of the lakeshore and trek across land the rest of the way to the Presque Isle campground. This is the toughest part because there are houses and private property you'll have to avoid. Hiking the shoreline is not an option the entire way because there's a rocky cliff that can't be navigated at the far east side.

However you make it to the Presque Isle side, once you're there you're in the clear. The river on this side is equally stunning and features several more big waterfalls and plenty of old growth.

Camping options are abundant. You can camp in the Ottawa National Forest along the Black River, anywhere in the interior stretch of the NCT, along the lakeshore in a hidden stream gully (many of which have informal camps), or along parts of the upper Presque Isle before you reach the State Park proper. Or set up camp in the Presque Isle campground!